The good news of the new year continues!
In La Stampa and on Gusto.it there is talk about our winery and our dedication, since the very beginning of our production, toward native grape varieties. We thank Dr. Paolo Massobrio for dedicating this article to our business, highlighting the commitment to the territory and Filippo Cassano's farsighted vision.
Below is the link to the article and don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter to receive news about our promotions.
We were among the first to write about the elegant Primitivo of Gioia del Colle (which differ from those of Manduria) and especially about this winery. And, after almost twenty years, it has been comforting to see its evolution.
We already knew Filippo Cassano as an oenologist Visionary, with his Polvanera winery of Gioia del Colle (the name evokes the dark colour of the ferriferous soils that surround the estate started in 2003 and the original activity of charcoal production). He bet from the beginning on native varietals, devoting most of his energy to Primitivo, which has brought to the bottle a level of excellence. It was precisely a priest of Gioia del Colle, Don Filippo Francesco Indellicati, a botanics enthusiast, who gave this name to the grapes – primitive meaning early in maturation – and planted them in one of the country’s hamlets toward the end of the 1870s.
Twenty years after the company’s founding, today the vineyards cover 120 hectares. (1 million bottles), most of which are in the area between Gioia del Colle and Acquaviva delle Fonti, and a smaller part in Tarantino. Alongside Primitivo, the other typical varieties of the area dwell, from Aglianico to Falanghina, from Maresco to Minutolo, from Marchione to Bianco d’Alessano.
To directing the harvests and winemaking, in addition to Filippo, are two oenologists: his daughter Adriana and Maria Rosaria Campanella.
The training systems are alberello (for the old sixty-year-old vines) and spur-pruned cordon; the vineyards are entirely cultivated according to the dictates of organic farming, with the choice of not aging in barrels, to enhance the varietal notes of the grapes. And what is also striking is the evocative winery, carved 8 meters into the limestone rock, and set in a unique landscape characterized by vineyards, dry stone walls, and rows of roverelle oaks.
Let’s start with the variations of Primitivo, which take the “numerical name” from their respective alcohol contents.
The Gioia del Colle Primitivo “14” 2020 It is an impenetrable ruby color, with a full nose of fruit pulp and mushroom notes, and an intense pepper spice; on the palate it is full, velvety, and soft.
The Gioia del Colle Primitivo “16” 2020 It is produced from an approximately 70-year-old bush-trained vineyard. A sample even more spicy than the previous, and on the nose the fruit is raisined, with a subtle haematic note. In the mouth it is full, warm, with the pepper coming back strongly due to the retro-nasal effect.
The Gioia del Colle Primitivo “17” 2020 It ages for 24 months in stainless steel tanks and one year in bottle. On the nose the raisined fruit is enriched with a balsamic component and with a briny note that evokes olives in brine. On the palate it is on par with the other samples—full, tannic, with a pronounced spice on the finish.
The Puglia Rosato Spumante Brut “A” 2022 It is a Charmat method Primitivo in purity, with brief pressing maceration, fermentation in autocave for 10 days and 6 months on the lees. It is bright pink in color, with a sour cherry aroma and almost sweet notes of caramel. On the palate it emphasizes freshness with a slightly tart note that invites drinking.
The Valle d’Itria Maresco Spumante Brut Bianco “M” 2022 It originates from Maresco grapes in purity, vinified with the Charmat method. It remains on the lees for 3 months and then one month in bottle. It is a bright straw color, with a deep, citrusy bouquet, consistent with what is perceived on the palate where the acidity emerges strongly and runs through the sip.
The Puglia Bianco d’Alessano 2022 From the same-named autochthonous grape variety in purity, which undergoes gentle pressing and a short maceration of 2/3 hours in the press, then fermentation and aging for 3 months in stainless steel tanks and 2 months in bottle. It is light straw in color, with a citrine nose and a lactic background; on the palate the wine has body but does not look to length so much as to immediacy. A truly coherent expression of this glorious grape, a pleasure to rediscover in all its expressiveness.
